Fitting of hose clip - remove threaded end of shock for the chassis /axle and slip the hose clip (of the correct size) over the threads until it sits below the adjuster and then just tighten it up with a screwdriver, you will find that the worm-drive part of the hose clip will be the only part that sits against the adjuster. still works like this

When it's time for adjustments to your set up all you need is a screwdriver, just slacken the hose clip and let it fall (can only go to the bolt that's holding the shock onto the car) then adjust the shock up or down as desired and then when your finished lift up the hose-clip until it sits against the adjuster as above and tighten it up. (no more sticky fingers or looking for tape).

This process makes adjustment far easier and quicker.  In the time the author of this tip has been using the hose clips, he has not had one came slack on the car.  Most of the other drivers in his area are now using the same type of jubilee clips (hose-clips)on their cars as well.

The Bilstein shocks have a top which screws onto the shaft and is held in place by a lock nut.  It was my original understanding that these tops would never come off by themselves, but are built such that they can be replaced or removed in order to install different types of coilover adapter kits.

This understanding is incorrect!  In a recent race, the shaft rotated out of the shock head.  This left the shock head only connected to the upper mount point, and the body of the shock to hang uselessly from the chassis.  As no damage was done to the car or the shock, we were able to simply screw the shock head back onto the shaft, locking it in place with red Locktite.  After summarily checking the remainder of the shocks on our cars, we found at least one more shock shaft which had begun to rotate.

As a precautionary measure, check the tightness of your shock heads every week, along with your regular nutting and bolting of the car.   Along with keeping your setup consistent, it could save your car someday.

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• Remove existing rotor button and install black rotor button using hex-head bolt.  Install blue pickup coil using smaller hex bolts and spacers (spacers go on the inside and attach pickup coil to block.
• Line the "35 degree" mark on the blue pickup with the split in the engine case.
• Hook the pickup coil to the red box, but don't hook the other parts of the red box up.  All that should be hooked up to the box is the ignition wire and ground, and the wiring harness that goes from the box to the pickup coil.
• Flip your ignition switch on - you will see the red diode on the box go on and off.  Move the rotor button around (bump the starter) until the "1-4" is at the 2 o'clock position.  Rotate the crank by hand ( a number of ways to do this, I use a big screwdriver thougth the universal on the driveshaft) until the "1-4" mark lines up with the vertical mark on the pickup coil (the mark I mentioned earlier to line up with the split in the cases) - the red diode on the box should light up when these two marks are aligned.  If the
  light doesn't come on, adjust the pickup and try it again.
• Once this is complete, rotate the engine until the "2-3" mark is in the in the 2 o'clock position and then repeat the previous instructions.
• Once both marks are aligned, the coil is set properly and you can go about permanently affixing the red box.  Set the timing by moving the degree marks on the side of the coil to line up with the horizontal split in the case. Set the coil to 38 degrees, as this is what Hank Scott told me.
  
  Good luck.  I think you will be pleased with the box unless you run XJ coils.   If you do, get some FJ coils or the new dyna coils.